If you are you considering bathtub refinishing, then it is important to understand what the "industry standards" are.
Our National Refinishing Standards
The refinishing industry has been around since the 1960’s, however it still remains a mostly unregulated service. The coatings and chemicals used in the process are regulated, but the process itself is not. This can and has led to many customers getting dramatically different results.
There are also many different expectations from customers about refinishing. Some people think that the surface will be as good as a brand new bathtub, while others expect the surface to look spray painted. In an effort to educate consumers, we have developed our own national standards for refinishing. These standards are what we hold all of the refinishers that we work with to, while also giving our customers a clear level of expectation prior to choosing our service.
PREPARATION
To achieve the best results possible for refinishing there are several actions that need to be taken in preparation. Prior to booking your job, you should consider doing other larger or more difficult remodeling tasks first. Things like replacing or repairing tile above or around the tub. Painting the room, or updating plumbing fixtures. All of these tasks have a risk of potentially damaging the bathtub. While we can do our refinishing before the jobs are done, we will not be liable for any damages to our surface that would result from that type of work. We also need working temperature control in the unit. If it is too cold, the coatings will not cure. If the temperature is too hot, the coatings may flash dry which leaves it very rough, plus the technician is at risk of overheating. The ideal temperature is around 70 degrees.
CLEANING
Most high quality coatings are done in specially designed spray booths. These rooms have industrial exhaust equipment that evacuates dust particles and fumes. Unfortunately we do not have that luxury when we are working in your home. So it is vital that the room that we will be working in, is as clean as you can make it. Cleaning should include dusting/wiping down the walls. Vacuuming the floor. As well as doing a thorough cleaning on the surface that we are going to coat. Failure to do these things could result in extra charges and a contaminated surface that may require extra repairs to correct. It is also not recommended to do refinishing in a room/home that is under construction. Even work being done in a distant part of the house can lead to surface contamination especially when heaters or air conditioners are running.
PRIOR SURFACE TREATMENTS
In some cases there may have been products applied to the item that could prevent our coatings from curing or adhering properly. The most common example is tile or grout sealant. A sealant goes on clear and is next to impossible to know is present, until you try to coat over it. Tile/grout sealant is typically used on natural stone tile or on grout joints wider than 1/8th inch. But we have seen sealants being applied to bathtubs before too. Another product that makes refinishing difficult is silicone. It is common for silicone caulking to be used in the seams where the tub meets the walls/floor. But there have been times that it was used as a temporary crack, rust or chip repair.
If you are aware of any sealants or other chemicals being applied to the surface, you must inform us prior to work starting. We will not be liable for any defects in the coatings that may result in clear sealants, improper use of silicones or any other chemicals that may inhibit the curing of our refinishing products.
CURING
Please note that it can take between 24 and 48 hours for the coatings to initially cure. Do not touch the coatings during this time. The technician will inform you of when it is safe to start using the surface. The coatings also require a temperature controlled room for curing. The temperature must stay around 70 degrees fahrenheit, for the initial curing period. If the temperature drops too low, then it can halt the curing process.
After the curing time, please inspect the surface. It is possible that some defects formed during the curing. These defects could include runs or sags, sharp bumps, dust contamination and more. Long Term Curing time is 90 days. During the long term curing extra care is needed. Please refer to the Care and Maintenance document for details.
If there are any defects, please do not try to pick at them. Simply call us and we will schedule a repair date at the earliest opportunity. Defects such as these, are considered warranty work and will be covered under the warranty. However, if a defect is a result of accidental damage, faulty plumbing or dirty work environments, then additional charges may apply.
FINAL RESULTS
Due to the many extenuating circumstances, final results may vary. Below is our guideline for final results. (Please Note: The job is considered complete after the final coating has been applied. Final payment is due at that time. Any defects or repairs after the initial curing period are considered warranty work and are not grounds for delayed payment.)
Uniform Color: The coating should be a uniform color throughout. If you see areas that look thin, or that are showing a bit of the original color please notify us for a repair. (Note: Shadows are a common occurrence in bathrooms and kitchens. If you suspect a color problem on your new surface you may request an on site inspection. If we determine that it is a shadow, you will be charged a travel service fee.)
Surface Condition: It is common for minute dust particles to settle on the surface during the curing process. These particles are oftentimes so small that you cannot see them with your naked eye. But you can feel them, especially if you gently brush your hand across the surface. These particles will naturally rub off over the course of the Long Term Curing period. You have the option of having the technician return for a buffing, though this would come with an extra charge, unless we determine that it is a warranty defect. (Note: Buffing of the surface will partially degloss it. So you must decide if you prefer a shiny surface that may have some tiny bumps, or do you want a smooth surface that is less shiny?)
Caulking: Depending on the technician's preference, the item may be caulked before we leave, or it may need to be caulked after the initial curing. There are pros and cons to either instance. Unless otherwise noted in your paperwork, caulking is an additional fee and should be completed after the initial curing time. If you wish to save yourself some money, and intend to do the caulking yourself. Please note that you cannot apply tape to the surface to aid you in the process.
Visible Defects: If you can see a run, bump, or some other form of defect with your 1) naked eye, 2) with normal lighting and 3) from 3 feet or more from the surface, then it would be covered under the warranty. If this is the case, we ask that you take a few pictures of the defect, text them to us and then call us to schedule a repair appointment.
If the defect cannot be seen without altering one or more of the above conditions, then it likely would not be covered under the warranty. (Note: We still encourage you to bring any defects to our attention because there are times that it may still be a warranty issue. But if it is determined that it is not a warranty issue, then additional charges may apply.)
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